About Tony, 26th July 1927 – 26th November 2015

Tony 1930s
Tony was my dad.  He died a month ago on 26th November 2015, aged 88. Suffice to say that in the immediate aftermath, there was a palpable sense among family and friends that someone real and gentle, clever and funny, compassionate and wise had gone.  The facts of his life are relatively easy to relate but the whole feeling and the whole meaning of Tony in all our lives, those that knew him, will be harder to process and to understand; it will all take years. This post contains sections from his eulogy and some new thoughts but overall it’s just a start to the process of remembrance and understanding…

Tony was born in Ilford on the 26th July 1927, a younger brother for his much loved older sister Elizabeth who died in 2011.  He was baptised with the first name “John”, following a longstanding family tradition. But, as was the way in a number of families at that time, he was better known by his middle name, Anthony, and always shortened to Tony.

Tony’s parents, Jack and Mildred, settled the family down in a flat in Sydenham Road near the centre of Croydon in the early 1930s. He went to school at St Mary’s Elementary and, later, Selhurst Grammar which is partly where he developed what would turn into a lifelong passion for both the arts and sciences in equal measure: chemistry and music, poetry and the visual arts.  His knowledge was seemingly boundless on so many fronts. And he had a thirst for knowing more, judging partly from the range of books in his house and partly from memories of his approach to things he didn’t know: Look it up; research it; read about it.  In later life, Google seemed to him like a minor miracle. He certainly gave the lie to the idea that there is a generation that don’t understand or use modern technology.  In his late eighties, he was as comfortable wading through search engine returns as through books.  Although like many of us, he never learned to manage junk mail properly.

Tony was aged 12 to 17 during the war years 1939 – 1945. These were important, formative times for him in his relationships, attitudes and values. He was evacuated to Brighton during the “phoney war” but returned home to Croydon just in time for the start of the heavy bombing raids which the town suffered throughout those years. The family spent a lot of time in the Anderson shelter down at the end of the garden and these experiences and wartime privations gave him – as with many of his generation – a set of values around not complaining, counting your blessings, making do, and staying completely calm and collected during difficult times.  It also informed his horror and despair at war and violence in the world, especially civilian bombing from the air.  He was an internationalist with a passion for peace and, whilst retaining his own Catholicism, he genuinely respected all religious beliefs and none.

Tony started work straight from school in 1943, aged 15, apprenticed to an accountancy firm. He hated it there and he soon began plotting a way out, following his love for science in evening study at Chelsea College, then part of the University of London; he later became a Fellow of the Royal Institute of Chemistry. He joined the laboratory of Dr Bernard Dyers and Company in 1953 and worked for them as a Public Analyst.

Tony 1950s Front Cover passport pic

The 50s also found him seeing the sights of Europe, travelling there with his friends, including the Gryspeerdt brothers, Peter and (composer and musician) Michael from Sydenham Road.  They went in “Laker” the car they named after Jim Laker, the Surrey and England cricketer, which would break down in the most spectacular locations (the Brenner Pass for example).  The car was transported there on a plane from Lydd airport to Calais. At the time this was a hugely popular way of getting to France though it seems incredible to us now, driving a car on to a plane to get to the continent (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silver_City_Airways )

Tony was a staunch Catholic and it was somehow fitting that it was on a pilgrimage to Rome that he met his future wife, and our mother, Bernie, a beautiful young Irish woman. Family legend has it that he was hugely impressed after she produced a cigarette from a biscuit tin full of them after offering him one. They married in July 1960 and after a brief stay in Lewisham, settled in a house in Addiscombe, Croydon where my sister and I were born in the 60s.  They remained together in that house until Bernie died in 1990.

Tony loved his job as an analytical chemist.   In fact I don’t think I’ve ever met anyone as happy in their day job. Our childhood was full of scientific chat and related paraphernalia: starched white lab coats delivered to the front door for him every week, chromatography and copper sulphate crystal kits brought home and the rest. We visited his lab in the City of London, truly a place of wonder. He would have loved it if we’d become scientists too but in this, as in all things, he respected the choices we made: our jobs, our music and our own personal thinking on religion.

Alongside family life, music truly was the other great love of his life from his earliest years. He was an avid collector of records even when they took more than half his income, rushing home to spin discs with a running time of about 5 minutes which he bought from a place on the Strand.   Classical music, especially English 20thc. composers were his first love, in particular, the music of Elgar and Delius.

My dad’s earliest media technology memories were of the wireless… He writes richly in an early musical autobiography of the media forms and popular culture of the time.  The familiar running out of battery of our digitalia today having an echo in the late 30s in something that looks and reads like a blogpost:

“The source of most of our music at home was the wireless, run on accumulators which had to be taken along for recharging at the local tobacconists.  What agony when the power would fade during a favourite programme such as Children’s Hour or a cinema organ recital…”
Later he connects music to other aspects of popular cultural life, Saturday mornings in front of the wireless:
“The memory … conjures up a vision of the lunch table, plums and custard finished and Father smoking his pipe, staring out of the window ruminating possibly on the chances of Crystal Palace later in the afternoon.”
Along with discussing film music and the last days of music hall an early encounter with an eerie form of world music came into through the wires of the little flat:
“Father was no mere random twiddler but assiduous student of “World Radio”, a weekly paper giving details of broadcasts from all over Europe and probably more distant parts too…From time to time we could hear Radio Algiers, but the transmissions seemed to consist of peculiar wailing noises, accompanied by a drum.”
And then a big change – as popular cultural artefacts entered the home with the purchase of a gramophone and they could decide their listening agenda (when they could afford it)
“Father’s pride and joy was his beautifully made HMV gramophone; a console model with doors opening to reveal the silk and fretwork clad loudspeaker.  This was often played on Sunday morning on Father’s return from the 11 o’clock mass.  The Chinese vase and runner would be removed, the motor carefully wound up, the doors opened and the massive pickup placed carefully on the record.”

Tony wrote later about the aftermath of a V1 flying bomb coming down in nearby St. James’s Road in the summer of 1944:
When it was safe to emerge we found the front of the house windowless and saw the whole of the dining room window frame had been hurled across the room, crushing the table and landing within a yard of my pile of records – a near tragedy.”

I have strong memories of him following his musical obsessions through all the formats, from tape to cassette to CD but always, of course, vinyl albums.  The first stereo tape recorder he ever bought gave him such pleasure.  He bought so much music.  In the 1960s and 70s, he used to borrow records from Croydon library in Mint Walk on a Saturday morning. I can remember watching him choose the records and take them over to the magnifiers to inspect them for damage.  Scratches were reported on the ticket and people who scratched them badly had to replace them; the last thing you wanted to do was to get reported for scratches you didn’t make.

Later in life he became a singer, which gave him immense joy and pleasure.  It all started with my sister Frances persuading him in 1977 to join the local church choir.  He subsequently became a really confident bass, singing there until the traditional choir was abolished in 2004 and eventually joining the Latin choir at St Mary’s.  At this point, he had already become a member of John Ruskin Choral Society (in 1983) and the Thursday Singers at Southwark Cathedral (in 1994).  He was a much loved member of all of those choirs and made so many great friends, like Michael, Enid and Alan.  Word got round and he would often take calls from local choirs who needed a bass at short notice. He knew so much music by heart, the Messiah and more, and he would often set off without a score to join in.

Tony Back Back Cover birthday pic

For years, Tony volunteered to do charity work for the blind, mainly due to the proximity in his early years of a blind couple downstairs from them in Sydenham Road. I remember, as a child, being lulled to sleep by the sound of him sitting downstairs recording books on economic and social theory for blind students.  Right up until last year he produced an audio magazine podcast for the Croydon Vision charity for the blind, recording and engineering it himself painstakingly at home!

This post would go on too long to cover all of Tony’s many other passions and interests. I should mention his love of cricket, rugby, London, cats (even in his last days he was buying the cats presents!), his knowledge of, and love for, the languages French, Italian and German, good food, good wine and beer, travel, cinema, visual arts as well as his interest in the changing fortunes of Crystal Palace Football Club which he inherited from his own father who stood on the terraces in the thirties, forties and fifties.  He was delighted at their form in recent years. The club announcer read his name out amongst the births, marriages and deaths at a recent game during half time. He would have got a tremendous kick out of that.

When he fell seriously ill this year, Tony was stoical, calm and centred. He was so grateful to the wonderful staff at both the Royal Marsden and to St Christopher’s Hospice and he was so proud of our NHS, having lived through the time before and after its founding. I can see him enjoying the thought of the NHS Choir at number one at Christmas this year, even though he may not have liked the song!  His skilful and caring doctors and nurses found him to be as amazing as we did; one of them even stopped us to say she thought he was “inspirational” as he left the Marsden.  We certainly found him to be so, and we also found his many carers during those weeks and months to be inspirational people too.

Tony was able right to the end to experience all the things he loved. We read poetry to him and more often than not he would join in from memory if we left a line out! We played him music he loved and my son’s girlfriend, who is a musician, recorded some piano music for him. Frances brought him some of his favourite food and she also located a little gin and tonic, which he loved. He was grateful for a visit by a priest in his last week and it gave him a deep sense of peace to receive the sacrament of the sick.  This was, after all, his faith and we respected this part of his life even as we made different choices ourselves.

Tony was able to spend precious time with each of his grandchildren, as well as his son-in-law and daughter-in-law.  My sister and I were there too for this time and sometimes we would catch each other’s eye and know that we were thinking the same thing: How lucky we were to have had this time with him; how lucky we were to have him as a father; and how lucky we were to share such a large part of our lives with such a remarkable person. Now we have to get used to being in the world without him.

 

Adelaide and Melbourne – last days and nights of the tour

Weekend days off in Adelaide and Balnarring / Seminar in Melbourne

After flying in from Auckland…I travelled on up to Adelaide to Rich and Jess as Caroline set off home at Melbourne. John came out to meet me with Alex and very kindly took the big bag away so I could go with just hand luggage…

Met by Rich at Adelaide airport out for long drive back up to Port Willunga, amazing skies and beautiful sunset. Both boys in bed when I arrive and a great meal cooked by Jess. Great to catch up with friends much missed in SE London. But this is a great place to live. The following day we were on Southport Beach with Alex and Noah. Fun and games and a fairly long fairly scary swim out to the reef. Where Rich informs me about the various dangers hereabouts…the occasional Great White and a Blue Ringed Octopus colony. Danger aside (and, yes snakes get a look in via a handwritten sign about avoiding them in the sand dunes), they live in a very lovely place and have some new friends among the teacher diaspora from London…Great to see them…hope to stay longer next time…

Back to Melbourne after lovely meal out where John again meets me and we head back to the house…

The following day down with Gina and Alex and Ollie to quite a different beach at Balnarring via a night at the Moore’s house out on the peninsula. Dennis and Frances generous with time, food, hospitality – lovely house and enormous garden. Well set up for Alex and Ollie with trampoline, hammock and so on…

Catch up with Neil and Sophie and Maisie on the beach at St Kilda on a blistering hot day. My other friends who left last year…Also doing well and loving Melbourne. Because what is there not to like? I’ve never seen it in the sun before since on previous visits we’ve come in August in the winter. A beautiful city. Nice lunch out in Federation Square…Visit ACMI later – the BFI equivalent – where thanks to Neil and Sophie I was lucky to see an exhibition by Candice Breitz http://www.acmi.net.au/candice-breitz.aspx – identity and popular culture themes…

Lovely meal at Lucinda and Andy’s house, catching up with former MA and now PhD student – also great to see John Yandell from London there.  Lucinda also came to the seminar.

Gina kindly drove me out to Monash Clayton campus and I met with Neil and many of his colleagues including Michael Henderson and Scott Bulfin. The seminar seemed to go well in spite of disconcerting video link up to empty-ish rooms round the Monash campuses! But the room I was in was full of good and interesting people. Some great questions about my book and the work and good discussion afterwards. I hope they all enjoyed it as much as I did. IN fact

In Melbourne in the evening – out to a lovely restaurant treated by John and Gina – last night of the tour and all…Home tomorrow – really missing family now and wanting to be home but not especially up for a very long haul – looking forward to catching up with everyone in London nonetheless in the chilly northern hemisphere and seeing skies where Orion is the other way up. I will miss the Southern Cross though…a strange beautiful group of stars…

Last days last week in New Zealand

Final three days in New Zealand were busy with work meetings and trying to keep up with online teaching and email.  Lots seemed to happen immediately I left which needed sorting out in one way or another.

However we still had time to meet with Sara Archard in the early years team here – lots of synergies and inventive uses of technology. Caroline went to observe Noeline teach and I met with Paul Cowan who took me through the ed-linked site and the various innovations that we need to hear about back at the IOE.  It was really very good stuff with a simple podcast link and upload facility for iTunesU if required.

In the evening we were taken to dinner by the Faculty up in Hamilton at the Victoria Street bistro.  Wonderful food and great atmosphere; we were joined by Garry and Helen and I had a chat with Bronwen Cowie Dean of Research and others.  Hosted by Russell Yates. A nice evening…

Thursday 28th was also busy – though we thought we’d left time for preparing the Faculty talk for the final afternoon the next day…very hot morning over in the campus with meetings again – I visited Screen Studies Dept and met wit Geoff Leland, known to Cary, Andrew and David and many others. He bought me lunch and we chatted about mutual interests and also about one of his projects looking at Shirley Temple contests; he’s building a website about it and going to California soon to research it on the ground.  I didn’t get to meet Gareth Schott this time but I found his door.

In the afternoon we walked in the heat up into Hamilton from the campus looking for a present to give Garry and Helen to thank them for everything they’ve done for us.  We visited the Art Post (thanks Terry for the tipoff) where there were so many nice things. We got them a glass bowl and Caroline also shopped for home.  Home later for pizza and beer with the family.

The last day was spent in meetings and preparation. We saw Sara Archard again and her partner Simon this time – with some swapping of news of Lee Green first.  They are escapees from SE12.  Good talk and then from there to the library balcony area where we worked on our colloquium presentation for the afternoon.  Seamless hook up to projector and speakers and we were away with Caroline talking about work with CPD and research conducted for BECTA followed by me talking about LKL, MODE and DARE collaborative with examples drawn from two projects I’d been involved with – MMM and Computer Games…

Great talk and wind down in staff room afterwards with lots of great Waikato education people and lovely meal out in the evening with Garry, Helen and Jesse.

Image

We’ve been very very very well looked after here…

The next day: Caroline back to London and me on to Australia…

Stanley Ave Sch, Te Aroha & Mt Maunganui

Monday 25th was a work day – some connections from home and email in the morning with meetings with e-learning team in the afternoon over coffee in the sun on campus. Good discussion and exchange of ideas. Singing praises of Martin Tim and Kit and the move to Moodle2 back home.
Tuesday 26th – was another of our days out with Garry generously covering huge distances in the Waikato car to ensure we got a good picture of the country’s educational institutions as well as some of its great scenery. So we had a great day at a school in the morning, a university campus in the afternoon and then a paddle in the Pacific at the end of it.
The school was Stanley Avenue School at Te Aroha under the leadership of Stuart Armistead for the past 4 years or so…really fabulous place. Similar to Leamington in some ways and also as great in different ways. Again, consensus and a concern for learner-centred dispositions are driving the curriculum here. Being child-centred and achieving highly can sit side by side. Let’s hope – as I said before – that they resist the relentless and senseless political interference that makes things not so great for teachers back home. We saw classes in which things were in balance with the new technologies and media integrated well. Traditionalists and evangelists for phonics back home would have been pleased by the focus on the basics on the walls. But those same consultants simply would not understand some of the other things going on. Children taking control of their learning, respect for teachers as learning professionals, that kind of thing. They seem to have things in balance here. Teaching “the basics” and innovating as well. You can do both and adopt the radical position in the middle. We saw two boys reading about Anzac Day and deciding to record themselves and upload it to their portfolio via an iPod touch. You could take the view that I am being a techno enthusiast in reporting this. But actually, no. This is not so much to do with the technology. The whole process is about learning to read, to evaluate reading performance and to store that – this actually works and has become a part of the lived experience of the school. It’s not an extra. Neither is it something that determines agency. They just do it! No drama.
But, speaking of drama, the school is, of course, in a truly dramatic setting below a mountain. Landscaped grounds have a swimming pool, a recreation centre, two climbing frames, a mini rugby pitch, a growing area…an enthusiastic staff which is blended together from older teachers and younger teachers – a new deputy principal who lived and worked in Bromley for two years and also knew Lee Manor from some supply work…all in all a great visit and lots to think about in terms of curriculum, media and tech use and whatnot.
We stopped for lunch in Matamata, near to Hobbiton the Lord of the Rings themed visitor centre but this being a work day we carried on up over the Kaimai mountain range and down to Tauranga, a small city on the East Coast with a campus of Waikato University. Once there we met with inspiring early years lecturers, Clare and Gill and Paora a man doing wonderful work on culture and identity, partly based around digital media but working in 87 schools throughout the country. Another great and inspiring conversation and more contacts to take home.
From there at the end of the day we pushed on to Mount Maunganui, a small settlement just across from Tauranga with a lovely beach just south of the centre. Here we paddled and Caroline got to see the Pacific Ocean for the first time. A busy and hectic day with some wonderful sights and memories.
Wednesday 27th was spent mainly on campus – again with inspiring people, including Sara who had emigrated from Lee Green, very near where I live, some 12 years previously. Had not looked back!
Long meeting and chat with her and colleague Rosina about areas of mutual interest…followed by a working spell in the library (for me) and catching up with Noelline (Caroline) and then an inspiring chat with Paul and Steve in the tech support/e-learning team – this is a complete “can-do” service, listening to what lecturers and students want for research and teaching. Unbelievable really, student centred at this level. It follows a philosophy of teaching and learning we’ve seen out in the schools too…

Taupo and around

Well, I alarmed some family and friends with my health scares in the previous post but I promise I am on the mend now and (take note anyone reading from Faculty HR) I kept working throughout; so it was not severe and I am feeling better each day especially after a weekend in Lake Taupo wth Garry and Helen looking after us and showing us around. I will need a separate blog for all the pharmacies I’ve visited in the southern hemisphere and the nice pharmacists I’ve met along the way.  Good people all of them.

Early morning Lake Taupo, Saturday 23rd Feb

Early morning Lake Taupo, Saturday 23rd Feb

Ok – So…Taupo. A town on the northern shores of Lake Taupo which is a lake that’s slightly bigger than Singapore in the middle of the North Island.  We had arrived by the end of the previous post and yesterday – Saturday 23rd – set about some exploration of the local area.  This included visiting hot springs, spectacular water falls, thermal plunge pools and more. Today – Sunday 24th – this included seeing mud erupting out of the ground in bubbling hot mini-geysers and wading in a Hot River.  This is a river that is hot. Very hot. And full of mineral goodness  – but also the possibility of Amoebic meningitis if you duck your head under and accidentally swallow any.  Given my recent track record I judiciously kept my head above water throughout…

This is indeed a strange and beautiful country.  More anon…and more in the way of pictures from my Flickr page below…

New Zealand: The first week

Finally – a blog post on my travels.

It’s been an eventful week; I’ve been derailed by illness and jetlag and panic about my seminar presentation.  These – well some of them – being the excuse of any blogger…  And on this blog in particular, almost 2 and a half years have gone by since I last posted.  But hey ho – it’s mine and only the people who want to know will take a look. Otherwise it will just float around with all the other blogstuff out there, little untended unobserved satellites and bits and pieces of throwaway things.

View through window onto Lake Taupo

View through window onto Lake Taupo

So here I begin summarising – or trying to – the first eventful week in New Zealand.  Here on the shores of Lake Taupo – a weekend retreat with Garry and Helen and Caroline. As I write, the late afternoon sun is lighting up the spray from a water skier out on the deep blue waters of the lake. Waters which reflect the deep blue sky and stretch out to the mountains and volcanoes on the far shore, over which tiny wisps of clouds are settling.  It’s really very nice here. And my first time on the North Island and my first time in a spa hotel in such a place…

Yesterday was also a first. The first time I’ve given an hour (well more than an hour) long seminar with pneumonia.  I didn’t know I had pneumonia at the time. Just had to keep apologising for the cough and playing video clips when I was particularly breathless. People were kind enough to say it was good afterwards though!  The diagnosis was only confirmed this morning when I went to the doctor at the suggestion of one of the technical team (thanks Paul)…but enough of the moaning about my physical condition.  That’s only for inflicting on close family… so I’ll draw a veil over it except to say that the doctor was fantastic and had an amazing array of gadgets like Bones McCoy had.  It was like going to a doctor in the future.

By the lake at Waikato Hamiton campus

By the lake at Waikato Hamilton campus

So – ok – what – why who etc.  I am on an academic exchange to the University of Waikato on the North Island of New Zealand. I am travelling with a colleague from the IOE, Caroline Daly, and being looked after by Associate Prof Gary Falloon and his wife Helen.  We are funded fully by Waikato apart from some living expenses. Their generosity is a little overwhelming.  This extends beyond the financial aspect into the even more precious commodity of time.  Everyone wants to meet with us and everyone wants to hear about us and we want to learn about and from him or her.  We are interested in the learning lives of people around technology and digital media with (generally speaking) a focus on children (me) and teachers (Caroline) and an age phase interest of primary (me) and secondary (Caroline). We are doing a seminar each to faculty members and a joint seminar they day before we leave at the end of week 2.

First morning at school of Education, Waikato

First morning at school of Education, Waikato

How and when did we get here? In an enormous Airbus with an upstairs and everything (though not for us) last weekend…  Straight through from London to Sydney with about half and hour off in Singapore airport for good behaviour and to enjoy yet more airport security…  About two hours off in Sydney then waiting for the plane over the Tasman Sea to Auckland where Garry met us and drove us to Hamilton – about an hour south – to the Novotel for week 1 (after Taupo this weekend, we move to Garry’s house. Generosity again. See what I mean?). So the journey began on Saturday night and ended on Monday afternoon, 18th Feb, in Hamilton.

On day 2 – Feb 19 we had some orientation time in the morning though extremely disorientated by everything else. Jetlag. Plus (in my case) a feeling of deep, deep lack of wellness…  But the sunshine and the welcome and the fact that Caroline was presenting first, certainly helped…She did a great job and set the bar very high, talking about the complex and fascinating Welsh project and evaluation of e-learning which was actually useful… Plenty of questions and a healthy audience and lots of discussion of teacher professionalism…  They have a healthy respect for teachers and learners in New Zealand and – so far – a refreshing lack of catastrophic and unwelcome interference by ignorant politicians. Like I say, everything is a little odd for English people.  Unfortunately there are signs that they might be moving to some of our greatest hits which have done so much to destroy morale and wreck our own system: National published testing, punitive inspection and so on and so forth.  We should be looking at what they do so well and learning from them, how they produce such amazing teachers in beautiful classrooms, confident learners.  Hey guess what? It could be they do the opposite to us.  Seems to be working…

Leamington School Sign

Leamington School Sign

And a school visit bears this out on the next day…bright and early on Wednesday the 20th to beautiful Leamington Primary in Cambridge, a small town south –east of Hamilton.  Schools in England are little fortresses these days, but we strolled through a sun-filled playground past a series of well maintained low rise wooden constructed classrooms, an outdoor swimming pool, a climbing frame, a growing area, trees, fields, into a classroom where the teacher Tonya welcomed us in.  It would break the hearts of some teachers back in the UK to see the space and furniture, the equipment, the light and the rest.  There are so many great teachers back home doing so much with very little in the way of resource or respect. And here I think they have both in abundance…

Leamington School boardwalk

Leamington School boardwalk

Leamington School going out to play

Leamington School going out to play

Into the headteacher’s office to talk through some of the issues and his philosophy…  They teach children. Not the curriculum.  It takes me back.  And it appears that in spite of this crazy child-centred approach they manage to take in phonics and real reading alongside one another (because I know you need both) plus some interesting things: Creativity, Independence, Excellence and more…They manage to achieve things with these children. Without OFSTED. Imagine that.

iPads in Year 6

iPads in Year 6

After that we go on walkabout to Leesa’s class where we look at the children using iPads 1:1, alongside all the traditional paraphernalia of primary classrooms because you can do both these things.  You don’t have to be an evangelist for one or the other.  Here the children are adept with writing in all forms of media, making movies and music, playing games of all kinds and working together or alone. The furniture has had to be redesigned hereabouts and so there are a few traditional tables but lots of beanbags and inflatables to sit on.  The atmosphere is productive and managed by a teacher who is clearly trusted and valued by the head. Trusted to experiment and innovate…Incidentally they have a great relationship with Waikato, benefitting hugely from support with equipment and offering in return their use as a site for research…

Later in the day we learn from Gary about his work, tracing the learning trajectories and activities in the use of iPads by means of some very clever research techniques.  He’s working on papers and frameworks to account for these and it will be well worth reading when it comes out in the fullness of time (academic publishing being what it is).

Coming almost up to date we have Thursday 21st to account for with me presenting in late afternoon and working most of the day on trying to feel well and on taking my presentation apart and putting it back together again.  This was all back at Waikato University Hamilton campus and I do believe I have not yet mentioned what a beautiful place this is. In addition to being populated with generous and inspiring people, the setting is unmatched really.  Student shops and cafes around a lake, ornamental gardens, woodland areas, a brand new library…really really good.

I was pleased I got through the presentation in which  I mainly covered my research into learner lives and digital cultures. I had some god searching questions, including a bunch from Terry Locke who edits a great online journal and is a professor there who knows several people back at my workplace.  A gentleman and a scholar and also a poet. We spend the early part of the evening at dinner with him and it’s a fascinating conversation ranging far and wide.  I only wish I felt a little better and more able to enjoy it all (but enough of that because there is not much interesting about other people’s illness).

And so we are at Lake Taupo for the weekend, taking a break from work at the uni and so that will be the subject of the next episode…

Sao Luis – historic centre Friday afternoon

At 12.30 the schools superintendent came to take me down to Sao Luis to the old town for my bit of historic sightseeing before leaving for home tomorrow.  She has asked a teacher who speaks some English to show me round…this is yet more generosity.  Giving up an afternoon to show round someone you haven't met.  Another hair-raising drive into the old centre, crossing the estuary of the Rio Anil on a long bridge and as you do you see the old town rising up on the hill in front of you.

Sao Luis has connections to two cities I've been in recently. To Dakar, because slaves were brought here from West Africa to work on the plantations and in the sugar fields. And to Liverpool with which it traded those goods as the western branch of the slave triangle in particular between 1780 and 1840. The Portuguese developed and built the city though the French had an influence too. It was picked for its location and proximity -comparatively – to Europe. The paving stones and beautiful Azulejos tiles which decorate so many of the buildings arrived sometimes as ballast and show the massive Portuguese legacy. It is now a UNESCO world heritage site.

We met with the teacher – Ariella – in the Turismo. And she was my guide for the next three hours. But first, before Luizenete had to go back to work, we had a snack of coconut and coconut milk, freshly cut by the stall holder.  Sweet and delicious and refreshing and not at all like coconut I've had before. It's not easy to work with (See below).  A man comes over and starts quoting philosophical proverbs and shaking our hands.  He is stick thin and really intense.  The gist is that we all make mistakes and we try to swap some proverbs back.  HIs is a sad story according to the stall holder – he was a lecturer once. Then he drank too much and now he is in th Mercado most days.

L. has to go back to work and Ariella and I start walking whilst she tells me some of the city's history; for two of the buildings we visit we also have short guided tours. The rest is at the level of just wandering and getting the atmosphere of the place. It is, of course, very different to the beach side zone of the hotel some 10km away in by Praia Calhau. Tiny cobbled streets, crumbling buildings, colourful Azulejos tiles, market stalls with strange fruits and dried shrimp, crabs in bottles, jars of medicines, sweets, sights and sounds different to anything or anywhere else I've been. The Se – the cathedral – echoes some in Portugal and is big and imposing, full of children on a tour.  The theatre and museum is the second oldest in Brazil and very atmospheric.  The city museum is housed in a former cotton magnate's house.  Laid out around a rectangualr courtyard with an upper deck for the family and a lower deck for the servants. An ingenious wooden ventilation system ensures the house takes advantage of the Sao Luis easterly prevaliing wind to provide a genuine air conditioning effect.

We walk some more and then stop in a roadside cafe. I have strong sweet coffee – they just put the sugar in here which is great – with a local pastry dish with a minced chicken filling.  Ariella talks about her job in developing literacy programmes – really interesting work with her students on popular culture and remixing youtube as a way of engaging learners – links with everything yesterday. She is getting married next year – avoiding the mad time in Sao Luis in June/July around the local carnival Bumba-meu-Boi, a riotous festival recreating a legendary resurrection of a dead bull (See picture of me with Bull costume below).

The time eventually comes to return to the car; this has been a privilege really and hopefully if Ariella and her partner come to London I can repay the tour and show them round. Likewise for any of the wonderful people I've met.

Back to hotel in late pm. Long journey home tomorrow…

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Above: Me with Bumba-meu-Boi costume                 Above: Rua Portugal / Rua de Trapiche

 

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Above: Coconut                                                     Above: Novice coconut operative

 

 

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Above: People who know what they are doing         Above: someone who doesn't

 

 

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Above: Local fizzy dinrk "Jesus" only available in Maranhao state  Above: crabs in bottles

 

 

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Above: Street scene                                               Above: The Se

 

 

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Above: Statue to Benedito Leite, writer                 Above: Street from museum

 

 

Sao Luis Wednesday: After the seminar

Basically I just suddenly feel drained in the afternoon. Long drive through Sao Luis to drop Eduardo at the airport and then back to the hotel.  Catch up with blog in room and doze. Skype with home Just as Gerrard scores for Liverpool. Fairly surreal conversation.  This is the way Skype appears to contract the world. But then when you switch off it's just you in a hotel room again and they've all vanished.

 

Out in the evening with Guillherme, Eduardo, Maria, Renata, Claudia, Aduato to a restaurant by the sea – even better than the first night.  Recive more education on Brazilian food and eat yet more local specialities, learn about Manioc.  But most importantly, I have my first Caparinha. A lethal but delicious drink – Perus has Pisco Sour, Cuba has Mojitos, Mexico the Margaritas, but Brazil has Caparinha. A delicious icy lime drink with a very very straong spirit base – Cachaca? MIght be the right spelling. G. has to leave early and we all head back to the hotel.  R., C and later J. and I find a beach-side bar and have more Caparinha and talk about everything. It's at this point, with the warm breeze and the sea and the live music from the bar that I realise I will have to find a way back one day. With everyone from the other side of the Skype screen would be good! There's so much to share…

 

 

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A Caparinha.

Sao Luis Wednesday: Seminar

Up at 6 to get ready for early start to venue.

Breakfast with sound technician who is organizing all the headphones etc for the English to Portuguese (the audience) and the Portuguese to English (me). Outside from the breakfast room window I see people walking up and down already exercising. Inside I have all the usual and then something I’ve never had before – made fresh by one of the hotel staff – it’s a tapioca.  Kind of a folded omelette with tapioca casing and a filling of ham, cheese, tomato. Is delicious anyway.

 

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From there and starting to meet lots of people already – out to the venue in S.’s car again through crazy morning traffic to the venue. About 30 mins away – a private university.

The auditorium seems vast. I know it won't be full but even with 200 there I haven’t spoken to this many people in a while. Not since I threw the radio mic across the floor in the Ian Gulland lecture theatre in Goldsmiths. Start to feel anxious.

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Technical issues abound and for one reason or another I use the Windows XP machine provided. Claudia helpgin to get everything right! It’s very formal and procedural at first. We sit at a table on stage in a line of three. Me, Guillherme from UNESCO and Eduardo from a university and based in Fortaleza – he will give his presentation after mine and draw parallels between what I say and his material.  Guillherme will be discussant and we will all take questions later.

Feel suitably nervous and prwol around the stage a bit pointing at slides nwith my radio mic like a rapper. If Jack could see me he would think it was frankly hilarious.  For the first five minutes I don't think straight but I get into it with some audience reaction to things which I realise is delayed because of the translation – but not delayed much – these translators are amazing.

So it seems to go well and the audience, 200 or so of teachers, teacher educators and policymakers seems to respond well. I talk for about an hour. Eduardo goes next and describes project work he’s done called Riverwalk in Brazilian schools looking at pedagogic styles.  We all take questions after a break. These are translated for me and back again by the heroic translators up in the booth at the back.  They are simply amazing. The questions are all about the usual issues and they show how much people care and want to get this right, the delicate dance between pedagogy, technology and culture. It is genuinely interesting and I am so glad I came. Well that and the fact that they asked me. I am well looked after over lunch and treated like a celebrity: lots of photos with people.

Tomorrow it seems that someone will help me get to know the old city – the world heritage site of Sao Luis.

I feel very lucky and I hope that I’ve been able to contribute something back. Some of these people work with very poor students in very difficult situations and it’s humbling as usual to meet such teachers and their teacher-educators.

Also humbling to be so well looked after.